28 February 2006

Pockets of Absurdity Vs. Pockets of Reality

Different Architects, Planners and Urban (Social) theorists have over the past few decades written extensively on the topic of ghettoization and transformation of various urban landscapes across the globe into ‘Gated Communities’ or even into experiments of ‘Urban Fantasies’ (theme park like realities).

During my architectural education and work in Bombay (now called Mumbai); I observed this urban phenomenon in various forms. From the organic and highly organized (though illegal) shanties of Dharavi (one of the largest ‘Slums’ in the world today) to the highly thematic Post-Modern housing township at the Hiranandani complex in Powai. I constantly run into such pockets of difference - difference from the overall urban fabric of the city. In some cases more than others I use to feel a certain sense of delusion or disorientation. To me these were pockets of the city that were disjointed from reality, disengaged from Bombay itself.

These areas of the city in a sense seemed more like – Pockets of Absurdity – where the urban fabric of the city was distorted beyond recognition. However, over the years this tremendously successful model has been constantly readopted (especially in suburban Bombay) and accompanying this process the city has also managed to recapture parts of these areas through familiar networks of seemingly disorganized programmatic interventions. Inevitably these Processes have started blurring the clear distinction between the ‘Absurd’ and the ‘Real’ by reincorporating many of these pockets into a new (identity of the cities) urban fabric.


Meanwhile, back home, Dubai (where I spent my entire childhood) is being increasingly eaten up by other forms of Urban Absurdities. Large scale urban projects - Malls, CBDs, Housing, Resorts, and Theme Parks - are adopting all sorts of aesthetics from Post-Modern to New Urbanistic and to even forms of irrational Manhattanization of huge chunks of barren desert landscape.






(The above snap is of probably the most absurd of all projects completed in Dubai - the Dubai Ski Slope - 400m of ski slope maintained at an average temperature of -2 degrees celsius in a country were the summer temperature constantly hits +50 degrees. Read more about it on the official website @ http://www.skidxb.com )

Read and see more from Dubai HERE
A decade a go, Dubai started small projects in distinct pockets - Pockets of Absurdities - where it would announce itself to the World. Today this absurdification project of Dubai has reached a similar point as that in Bombay where it ceases to be absurd any longer and it is in fact the city's new urban fabric. However, unlike the case of Bombay it is not due to the city's ability to absorb these projects but rather that the city has been absorbed by the absurdity.


In the past weeks back home I realized that whatever is left of the Dubai I grew up in, is now surviving in small Pockets – Pockets of Reality.



Read about a nice small trip to Hatta - HERE

23 February 2006

Escape into the Mountains (Hatta)

As a brief pause from the craziness of the city I managed to seek in a visit to the extreme South East of the Emirate (state) of Dubai to the beautiful oasis in rocky terrain of UAE – Hatta.


Though a popular haunt of citizens of Dubai and the neighboring Emirates Hatta seems to have been almost untouched by time. The sheer natural beauty of the mountains, date palm plantations and Wadis (a particular kind of streams running through these Rocky Mountains) is astounding.


However, most of the off-road tracks leading out of Hatta in almost every direction are visited only by a few adventure tourists and crazy Arab kids. Following instructions from an off-road guide to Dubai (and a kind Arabian tours guide) we went to what is known as the Hatta Pools.

Hatta Pools is a labyrinth of small Wadis (streams), Waterfalls and Pools that punctuate the seemingly flat bed of rock between the Mountains in the direction of Oman. The flow of water through these channels over years has completely transformed the hard rock into smooth flowing canyons which in my mind make up the most interesting and beautiful natural feature in and around Dubai.


Back to Dubai HERE

17 February 2006

Quick stop – Vienna

I had exactly five hours (excluding my flight transfer time) in the city of Vienna yesterday en route home to Dubai. So what can you see in five hours in a city you’ve never been to before?

Though I knew that it was impossible I wanted to see everything, at least everything in the city centre of touristy interest. Armed with a few tourist maps and an architectural guide map from the tourist information counter at the airport.

On my way to the city centre from the airport (20 minutes bus ride) I marked out a race route through the city centre including as many as possible Architectural projects. Though in practise I had to skip a few buildings so that I could squeeze in some amazing Museums and Art works by famous Austrian Artists – Gustav Klimt and Egon Schiele.



And this is the only project I was sure that I wanted to see in
Vienna since I planned to stop there for 5 hours. The crazy Roof top office project by the Viennesean architects Coop Himmelblau.


Though I was always sure that I couldn’t get to see it from the inside I am not complaining. To see it from far below on the street level was great enough. Check out some interior snaps at the Architects website - http://www.coop-himmelblau.at

Although I was sure that I wanted to see the above project by Coop Himmelblau; how could I leave Vienna being an Architect and not seeing any works by the man who coined some great phrases like ‘Ornamentation is crime’ and ‘Form follows function’ – Adolf Loos


I could only squeeze in two of his projects (sadly that too from the outside), The American Bar and the Looshaus at Michaelerplatz.

This building by Hans Hollein from the mid 80’s created waves in Architecture for it’s response to its strong historical context in the heart of Vienna.


See more from Vienna - Here
This has to be my favourite building in Vienna (at least amongst the ones I could see). Designed by Joseph Olbrich, “Secession” was designed in 1897-98 and now houses one of the best works by the famous Austrian Art Nouveau painter Gustav Klimt.

Check this link to see Klimt’s fabulous “Beethoven Frieze” that’s housed in the Secession -http://www.artpoint.at/lang_en/page.asp/2054.htm. One of the best works of art I’ve seen in person.


The interesting looking building below is the Museum for Modern Kunst Stiftung Ludwig (MUMOK) designed by ORTNER & ORTNER. Sadly, with only 5 hours to see a completely new city I had to skip this Museum. Could manage only a peek into the main lobby.


Check the official website of the Architects here - http://www.ortner.at to see some need stuff.


Click here for more on Vienna.

A Google map tracing my travels across the globe


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  • In Red cities where I have lived (more than one month);
  • In Blue cities that I have visited