Sahil's travel blog

British Lucknow

2011-06-21T22:00:00.000+05:30

Lucknow was an important city to the Raj and here's a few photos of structures that have survived from its British era...

Above is the Hazratganj road in Hazratganj, during the Raj it was called Queens Way and was open only to British carriages.

Above is the Husainabad clock tower (Ghanta Ghar) which is quiet close to the Chhota Imambara.

Lucknow was a major center of the Indian rebellion of 1857 and the rest of the photos are from the site of the biggest siege during that year between the Sepoys and the British, the garrison base popularly known as the Residency....

Glimpses of the City of Nawabs

2011-06-21T12:00:00.000+05:30

This is my first visit to theamazing city of Lucknow - famed for its courtly manners, beautiful gardens,poetry, music, and fine cuisine - over the next couple of days besides soakingin as much of the city's culture I'll be exploring its spectacular (butstrangely under-appreciated) architecture.

In this post I'll concentrate on thearchitecture of the old city (the architecture patronized by the Nawabs)starting with the most iconic buildings/complexes and then moving to the innercity area

The first four images are of theRumi Darwaza (aka Turkish gate named so as its design is based on a gateway inthe city of Istanbul)

The Rumi Darwaza forms a gateway tothe impressive Bara Imambara complex which comprises of : the largeAsfi mosque, the tomb of Asaf-ud-Daula - aka the Bhulbhulayah (the labyrinth)-,the Bowli and two imposing gateways lead to the main hall.

The Asfi mosque is probably thelargest mosque in the city and sits to the west of the large square. It'sorientation to Mecca introduces an interesting skew to the overall compositionof the complex - this is beautifully articulated at the grand stairs leading upto the high plinth of the mosque as it negotiates the shift in axis.

Inside isquiet stark with minimal ornamentation.

The structure furthest away from the gateway is the main Imambara building. It consists of a large vaultedcentral chamber containing the tomb of Asaf-ud-Daula. This is clearly one ofthe most popular sights of the city because of its famous three-dimensionallabyrinth that exists between the huge arched roof and the main hall below, andoften the whole complex may be referred to as the Bhulbhulayah. It is possiblythe only existing maze in India and came about unintentionally to support theweight of the building, constructed on marshy land.

Personally I don't think it's labyrinthineat all - its only the darkness and scale of the space that's slightlydisorienting - its extremely symmetrical and if you have any sense oforientation it's impossible to get lost or fall to your dead as per the localmyths popularized by the scavenging guides waiting just outside the entrance ofthis structure.

Sadly if you want to get to the roofof this structure you will have to put up with their nonsense and pay themalmost whatever they feel like charging as tourists are not allowed to venturethru the labyrinth on their own, but the view of the complex from the roof istotally worth it - don't miss it!

The last of the structures inside the complexworth paying attention to is the Bowli (which translates to step well).

Besides being the main source ofwater for the complex was also supposedly used as a hiding place duringtroubled times - although I don't think it was designed keeping that in mind asthe guide insisted.

Next I visited the Chhota Imambara, also knownas Hussainabad Imambara. It was built by Muhammad Ali Shah, The third Nawab ofAvadh in 1838 to serve as his own mausoleum. The main complex is entered froman interesting market square that is reminiscent of the Serai structures alongthe ancient caravan routes.

Imambara compound there are four structures - the furthest being the main tomb structure ofMuhammad Ali Shah


and the two identical structures mirrored on either side ofthe main structure are designed as mini replicas of the Taj Mahal andare gilded white dome and several turrets and minarets – these structuresare tombs of other members of Muhammad Ali Shah’s family.

The last structure is the tinyMosque which like the mosque in the Bara Imambara introduces a skewed builtmass into the plan.

The next fewsnaps are of Sa'adat Ali Khan’s Tomb complex.

Two large tombs in the complex honorthe Nawab and his wife Begum Khurshidzadi.

Moving on … thisthe massive - Jama Masjid of Lucknow, built in the year 1423.

It is built entirely with yellow sandstone andis known for its intricate style of design and architecture.

Here’s a few photosof its interiors that are intricately designed and ornamented with carvingsthat are said to have been inspired from Hindu and Jain culture.

..the next fewsnaps are of the main gates to enter the Kaiser Bagh (Emperor's Garden), which is acomplex at the heart of Lucknow and includes several buildings and 2 Charbaghs andwas constructed under the order of Nawab Wajid Ali Shah, who envisioned theplace as a paradise.

The twoidentical gates themselves are known as Lakhi gates, named after theirprice—one Lakh rupees.

One of the main buildingwithin this complex is known today as the Safed Baradari (historically it was theBaradari of Kaiser Bagh).

It is today used as a place of celebration where theelite of the city solemnize marriages and hold receptions.

Ironicallythe building was built by the last Nawab of Awadh as a 'palace of mourning' andwas named Qasr-ul-Aza for observing azadaari (mourning) for the martyrdom ofImam Hussain and his followers at Karbala!

And to endhere is a few random shots that capture an array of residential buildings inthe older parts of the city.

The Haveli of Jaisalmer

2011-02-06T12:30:00.000+05:30

For my last post from this amazing city in the middle of the desert I had saved her most impressive architectural marvels - the Patwon Ki Haveli of Jaisalmer.

The following photos are of different parts of this Haveli complex.

This is one of the most impressive buildings I have seen on this trip to Rajasthan - it's scale,

it's materiality,

it's response to the harsh desert climate,

and it's relation with the street - all in all it's just amazing.

It's not surprising why this building is till-date evoked in almost every discussion on 'Indian architecture'.

Glimpses in and around the Golden city

2011-02-05T23:45:00.000+05:30

Here's an assortment of photos from Jaisalmer.

Starting with one of the more well known Haveli's in the city - Salim Ji Ki Haveli

Random snaps while walking around in the narrow lanes of the inner city

Another grand Haveli

A view of the prominent Badal Vilas

A couple of snaps of the Royal Chatris (Tombs) which is around 7kms. north east of the city.

And to end a few snaps from the Gadi Sagar lake at the southern edge of the city - this is the only large water body in and around this desert city.

Jain Temples @ Jaisalmer

2011-02-05T23:35:00.000+05:30

As a visitor to the Golden fort one of the most interesting buildings to visit besides the Raj Mahal is the complex of Jain Temples.

Jaisalmer was a prominent center along the ancient caravan trade route that crossed the Thar Desert and connected India/East with the West. Though it was under Hindu rule, it was the Jain traders who made Jaisalmer prosperous with trade activities and these temples stand testament to their success.

Here's a few photos of the amazing temple complex:

These are extremely intricate buildings that are as much a piece of art/sculpture as these are amazing examples of traditional Dilwara style architecture.

The Golden fort

2011-02-05T23:30:00.000+05:30

Over the next few posts I'll be sharing some photos from my first visit to the (almost mythical) ancient trade route city of Jaisalmer. This post will focus on the main attraction of the city its 'Golden fort' that raises in the center of the city.


A model of the entire fort

The Golden fort raising above the city

The impressive ramparts of the Fort

The Raj Mahal complex (Royal palace)

A series of photos from inside the Raj Mahal

Views of the rest of the city from the Raj Mahal